Металлические заборы и ограждения: фото и цены для дачи и дома
Contents
- 1 Виды заборов
- 2 Преимущества и недостатки металлических заборов
- 3 Применение металлических заборов
- 4 Изготовление металлических заборов своими руками
- 5 Изготовление кованных заборов своими руками
- 6 Установка и изготовление сварного металлического забора
- 7 Изготовление забора из профилированных металлических листов
- 8 Изготовление металлических заборов из сварных секций (щитов)
- 9 Изготовление и установка декоративных металлических заборов
- 10 Проекты заборов
- 11 Цены на металлические заборы
- 12 Особенности металлических заборов
С древних времен люди, которые имеют в собственности различные земельные участки, на которых располагаются жилые дома, иные постройки, стараются оградить их от посторонних людей, используя различные ограждения.
Одним из популярных способов оградить свою территорию является установление металлического забора, который имеет не только красивый вид, но и внушает чувство надежности и нерушимости, так как металл в человеческом подсознании сравнивается с чем-то крепким, надежным и долговечным. Именно поэтому металлические заборы занимают одно из лидирующих мест среди различных ограждений земельных участков, и их популярность растет с каждым годом.
Виды заборов
Металлические заборы, несмотря на то, что изготавливаются из металла, бывают нескольких видов:
- кованые;
- изготовленные из металлических секций;
- сделанные из сетки-рабицы;
- сварные;
- изготовленные из листовых металлов;
- декоративные металлические заборы.
Теперь можно перейти к рассмотрению преимущества каждого из отдельных видов.
Кованные металлические заборы по истине можно отнести к произведениям искусства, и по их конечной стоимости — к элитным. Это связано с тем, что художественная ковка, которая применяется для их изготовления стоит очень дорого, поскольку необходимо специальное оборудование и металл. Но, не смотря на большую цену, эти заборы имеют множество преимуществ. Прежде всего, это красивый эстетический вид. Изготовление таких заборов ручная работа, поэтому мастеру можно заказать не только любой рисунок, но и покрасить этот забор золотой или серебряной краской, что придаст ему еще большую привлекательность. Кроме этого, кованные заборы, имеют прочную конструкцию, а материал идущий на их изготовление проходит специальную обработку антикорозиционными покрытиями, что приводит к долговечности и прочности таких ограждений. Единственным минусом кованных заборов может стать то, что пространство двора не сильно закрывается от посторонних глаз, но человек решивший установить у себя такой забор, прежде всего имеет хороший достаток, ему есть чем похвастаться и скрывать нечего.
Заборы, изготовленные из профилированного листа, также обладают рядом положительных моментов. Прежде всего, это красивый вид, так как профилированный лист можно красить любой краской. Следующее преимущество, это, конечно же, долговечность. Листы металла, которые идут на изготовление этих заборов, после профилирования покрываются специальным составом, который защищает металл от коррозии, а затем покрываются лакокрасочным покрытием. Следующим преимуществом таких ограждений является простота в установке, и легкий вес одного листа. Недостатков у них практически нет, единственно на чем можно заострить внимание, так это на то, что при бурении профилированных листов саморезами, или срезании части листа металлическими ножницами, открывшийся металл начнет поддаваться коррозии. Чтобы этого не получилось, такие места лучше обработать грунтовкой и нанести защитное покрытие.
Заборы, сделанные из сетки-рабицы, считаются временными ограждениями, и специалисты не рекомендуют использовать их на длительное время. Это связано с тем, что сетка-рабица, изготовленная из железа, быстро ржавеет, ее неудобно красить, либо вскрывать грунтовкой и иным антикорозиционными материалами. Кроме этого такие заборы не обладают красивым видом. Сама по себе сетка-рабица производится рулонами, и не имеет большой высоты. Поэтому забор, изготовленный из этого материала, не будет высоким. Если при производстве рабицы используют алюминий, то сразу нужно сказать, что он подвергаться быстрой коррозии не будет, но его легко перекусить плоскогубцами, поэтому к отрицательным качествам таких заборов можно добавить отсутствие какой — либо защиты земельного участка от посторонних. В идеальном варианте, такие ограждения подойдут для размежевания земельных участков, либо ограждения между владельцами соседних земельных участков.
Сварные металлические заборы, обладают такими же преимуществами, как и кованные, но отличием их является более низкая стоимость. Следует заметить, что при заказывании сварного забора, также можно подобрать любой рисунок, либо заказать цельные конструкции, которые закроют обзор местности, которая будет находиться за таким забором. Единственно на что необходимо обратить внимание, это на то, что сварные заборы, несмотря на свое сходство с коваными, не будут иметь красивого вида, который может быть достигнут художественной ковкой, поэтому это своеобразная альтернатива для тех, кто хочет видеть у себя металлический забор на подобие кованного, но может позволить себе, исходя из финансовых возможностей, не многое. Отрицательных черт у таких заборов нет. Хорошие специалисты, все материалы, из которых будет изготавливаться сварной металлический забор, обрабатывают его специальным антикороззийным веществом. Поэтому можно рассчитывать, что такой забор простоит долго, и его не нужно будет периодически подкрашивать.
Металлические заборы, изготовленные из металлических секций, тоже обладают своими преимуществами и недостатками. Прежде всего, они просты в изготовлении и надежны. С другой стороны не обладают красивым эстетическим видом. Также к достоинствам этих изделий можно отнести небольшую стоимость, возможность обработки поверхности антикороззийными средствами, и нанесение на них любых лакокрасочных покрытий, которые предназначены для металла.
Декоративные металлические заборы, являются своего рода шедевром, поскольку при их изготовлении могут использоваться комбинации из металла и других материалов (кирпич, дерево, камень). Тут широко используется художественная ковка, сварка, и другие хитрости технологий. Но чтобы декоративный забор получился шедевром, лучше всего привлечь дизайнера, который создаст проект. Кроме этого, следует учитывать для для их постройки используются различные материалы, поэтому цена может быть разной. Недостатков у них практически нет, за исключением цены.
Вот такие виды металлических заборов можно встретить на наших земельных участках.
Преимущества и недостатки металлических заборов
Рассмотрев какие виды металлических заборов бывают, необходимо рассказать об их преимуществах.
Прежде всего, это прочность и надежность конструкции. Все виды металлических заборов создаются из металла, который обладает повышенной прочностью. Они практически не поддаются деформации и механическим повреждениям, если только не воздействовать большой силой. Также сюда можно отнести стойкость к различным атмосферным осадкам, воздействию ультрафиолетовых лучей, и повышенной износостойкостью.
Следующее их преимущество состоит в долговечности. Несмотря на то, что любой металл, использующийся при производстве таких заборов подвержен коррозии, существует много способов предотвратить ее, и сделать так чтобы любимый забор простоял несколько десятков лет. Для этого существуют грунтовочные покрытия, специальные краски и другие вещества, которые защищают металл от пагубных воздействий воды, воздуха и других вредных факторов.
Отличная безопасность для любого участка. Правильно сделанный металлический забор, станет надежной преградой на пути людей, которые попытаются проникнуть на территорию, огражденную металлическим забором. Это достигается путем значительной высоты забора, а также специальной конструкцией, где практически не будет поперечных планок. Конечно, если забор изготовлен из сетки-рабица, или простых поперечных узких металлических полосок, то ни о какой защите говорить не придется.
Еще одно преимущество состоит в том, что за таким забором легко и просто ухаживать. Для того, чтобы он прослужил долго, достаточно проводить ежегодные мероприятия по его уходу. Сюда будет входить обработка поверхности специальными антикороззийными материалами, очистка от появившейся ржавчины, и конечно периодическая покраска. Если это все выполнять качественно и в срок, то металлический забор сможет радовать своего хозяина не один десяток лет.
Следующим преимуществом является возможность выбора материалов, из которых можно построить добротный металлический забор. Плюс к этому необходимо добавить, возможности современной ковки, профилированных листов, и других аксессуаров, призванных воплотить любые пожелания и фантазии, и удовлетворить спрос самого капризного человека. Самые лучшие дизайнерские проекты принадлежат именно металлическим заборам.
Последним преимуществом металлических заборов является то, что его может поставить у себя любой человек, который обладает различными финансовыми возможностями. Тут сказывается простота или сложность конструкции, какого вида забор хочет поставить у себя человек, а также какие по качеству материалы будут использоваться при изготовлении забора. На рынке таких изделий присутствует множество компаний, которые могут предложить свои услуги, стоимость которых будет значительно колебаться. Также не следует забывать, что можно не покупать готовый забор, а достаточно найти необходимый материал и изготовить его самому. В таком случае вообще придется заплатить только за материал.
Недостатков у металлических заборов практически нет. Единственно на что можно обратить внимание это на стоимость. Металл никогда не относился к дешевым материалам, поэтому даже самый дешевый материал будет иметь хорошую стоимость. Но если подумать о том, что деревянные заборы, по своей долговечности практически значительно уступают металлическим, а заборы изготовленные из камня, кирпича, или других материалов, подвержены периодическим разрушениям в зимнее время (когда вода попавшая в микротрещины замерзает, и расширяясь, начинает откалывать кусочки материала), то металлические заборы изготовленные из качественных материалов, и прошедшие специальную обработку, имеют множество важных преимуществ, перед всеми остальными ограждениями.
Поэтому, если провести сравнительный анализ между преимуществами и недостатками металлических заборов, то можно прийти к однозначному выводу, что металлический забор, это оптимальный выбор для хозяина домовладения, дачного или земельного участка.
Применение металлических заборов
Рассмотрев виды металлических заборов, и их особенности, можно перейти к вопросу их эффективного применения. Прежде всего, необходимо отталкиваться, что это ограждение земельного участка, и находящихся на нем различных строений, которое должно выполнять защитную функцию, и нести определенный эстетический вид, подчеркивающий статус владельца. На земельных участках могут располагаться дачи, жилые дома и коттеджы, а также различные коммерческие сооружения (цеха, офисы, спортивные комплексы и другое).
Для участков, где располагаются дома и коттеджы, предназначенные для проживания людей, выдвигаются свои требования к металлическим заборам. Прежде всего это безопасность жилища и красивый вид. Тут эффективно могут использоваться практически все виды заборов, за исключением металлической сетки-рабица, и металлических штакетин. Такие изгороди не содержат в себе элементы безопасности, и не имеют эстетического вида, даже если их покрасить хорошей краской.
Существуют земельные участки, которые только переданы в собственность, либо долгое время были заброшенными. Для них лучше всего использовать временные ограждения из сетки — рабицы, которые будут выполнять роль межевых знаков, и защищать участок от захода туда посторонних лиц и животных. Ставить добротный металлический забор смысла нет, поскольку еще не распланировано, что на этом земельном участке будет находится, и каков его будет общий дизайн, с учетом особенностей использования (постройка жилого или коммерческого помещения, разбитие огорода и так далее). Оборудовать такие участки одним из видов металлических заборов лучше после окончания всех ландшафтных или строительных работ, либо после того как есть проект застройки, либо разработан определенный ландшафтный дизайн площади.
Следующим видом земельных участков, являются те, где располагаются различные коммерческие сооружения. Перечислять их не нужно, но они также требуют определенного подхода к металлическим ограждениям. Это безопасность и эстетичность. В зависимости от наличия денежных средств у собственника, сюда можно также отнести и индивидуальность ограждения. Для крупных земельных участков, где располагаются целые производственные коммерческие комплексы, лучше всего подойдет заграждение, которое будет дополнительным элементом безопасности. Это конечно металлические заборы из различных металлических секций, поверх которых будут располагаться дополнительные элементы защиты территории от проникновения посторонних лиц. Если на территории участка находятся офисные помещения, административные здания, развлекательные комплексы, тренажерные залы или гостиницы, то требования к металлическим заборам, которые будут играть роль ограждения, немного меняются. Они должны нести в себе, прежде всего, красоту, и подчеркивать статус владельцев таких сооружений. Тут уже необходимо выбирать между коваными, сварными, декоративными, и сделанными из металлических листов заборами. Выбор зависит от общего дизайна строений, которые находятся на земельном участке, а также общего ландшафтного дизайна самого участка. Ну и конечно наличие финансовых средств. Для различных гостиниц, административных зданий и развлекательных комплексов очень хорошо подходят кованые и декоративные заборы. Вызвано это тем, что первое впечатление клиентов происходит от увиденного ограждения, поэтому на таких заборах стараются разместить эмблемы предприятия и другие атрибуты, а также декорировать его различными рисунками и другими эстетическими элементами. Даже некоторые государственные здания, также огораживаются кованными или сварными заборами, на которых красуются гербы нашей страны, а также аббревиатура государственных учреждений. Конечно, нужно забыть об установлении временных ограждений, выполненных из сетки, либо сваренных из простых металлических листов, помещенных в рамки.
Изготовление металлических заборов своими руками
Не у каждого есть возможность оплачивать работу по изготовлению металлических заборов, но есть возможность приобрести материал. Поэтому встает вопрос о том, как сделать любой вид металлического забора своими руками. Об этом и пойдет речь. Виды металлических заборов были перечислены выше, поэтому можно перейти к процессу их изготовления своими руками.
Изготовление металлического забора из сетки — рабица
Первый и самый простейший металлический забор из сетки — рабица. Его технология изготовления и установки самая простейшая.
Прежде всего, необходимо рассказать о материалах, которые понадобятся, это:
- рулоны сетки-рабица, которые производятся на специальном оборудовании, а затем приобретаются у поставщиков, либо продавцов, или ее можно изготовить в домашних условиях, если есть навыки по ее плетению;
- металлические трубы, которые будут вкапываться в землю, и выполнять роль фиксаторов и натяжителей сетки;
- металлическая стальная проволока, которой сетка — рабица будет прикручиваться к столбам;
- цементно — песочная смесь (бетон), которым необходимо будет заливать столбы, и в случае необходимости делать опалубку.
Вот в принципе и все материалы, которые понадобятся для изготовления и установки такого забора. Хотелось бы сказать о том, что понадобится на случай, если человек решил сам сплести сетку — рабица. Придется купить алюминиевую или стальную проволоку, при этом последняя должна быть не большого диаметра, чтобы хорошо плестись. Для того, чтобы заниматься плетением, лучше всего иметь практический опыт такой работы, так как это дело требует определенных знаний и навыков.
Если решено приобрести готовую сетку — рабица, то она бывает сплетенная из алюминиевой или стальной проволоки, и продается в рулонах общей длиной от 5 до 10 погонных метров. Перед тем как отправится в магазин, либо принято решение самому плести, необходимо измерять длину и ширину всего участка, который будет огражден, а количество необходимых метров высчитать по формуле: длина участка х 2 плюс ширина х 2, общая цифра и будет количество необходимых метров. Сетку — рабица лучше брать с запасом в 2-3 метра. Помимо нее понадобятся металлические трубы. При их выборе, лучше всего остановится на не большом диаметре, высотой 2 — 2.5 метра, и конечно цемент, песок и щебень не большой фракции. После того, как это все приобретено, можно приступать к изготовлению и установке металлического забора из сетки-рабица.
Процесс изготовления и установки
- Сначала необходимо произвести разметку, и пометить места, где будут устанавливаться столбы. Для правильной их установки необходимо исходить из следующих расчетов. Расстояние между ними не должно превышать 2 — 2.5 метров, именно такое расстояние поможет эффективно натянуть сетку, без ее провисания, и послабления. После того, как разметка произведена, можно приступать к следующему этапу.
- Под каждый столб необходимо выкопать ямки, при этом их длину и ширину можно делать по размеру штыка лопаты, то есть получиться квадрат, с размерами сторон, равными ширине штыка лопаты. Глубина должна быть не меньше 50 сантиметров, больше можно меньше нельзя, поскольку столб со временем не будет выдерживать силу натяжения сетки и начнет наклоняться, что послабит общее натяжение.
- Одним из важных вопросов, которые придется решить, это стоит ли делать опалубку под сетку. Лучше всего ее сделать. При этом высота от земли, такой опалубки, должна составлять не меньше 5-6 сантиметров. Для ее оборудования, необходимо вырыть траншею, глубиной не более 10-20 сантиметров, по всему периметру участка. После того, как ямки под столбы и траншея готовы, можно переходить к следующему этапу строительства.
- Необходимо приготовить бетон, который пойдет на заливку столбов и строительства опалубки. Лучше всего брать следующую пропорцию, ведро цемента, 3 ведра песка, и ведро щебня. Все это тщательно перемешать, добавить воды. Смесь должна получиться такой, чтобы она могла хорошо растекаться, и заполнять собой все пространство. После того как все готово, можно приступать к установлению столбов.
- Установка столбов начинается следующим образом. Берется металлическая труба, и ставится посредине квадратной ямки. Для ее лучшей фиксации, ее можно забить в землю с помощью кувалды на несколько сантиметров. Пространство вокруг столба заливается бетоном. Во время заливки нужно следить, чтобы столб не отклонился от своей оси. Для того, чтобы этого не получилось, столб вбивается в землю кувалдой на несколько сантиметров, и выравнивается по строительному уровню.
- Следующим этапом будет заливание цементно — бетонной смеси по периметру участка. Траншея уже готова, остается только сделать опалубку. Для этого можно использовать деревянные доски, скрепленные между собой, либо металлические листы. Если сделать опалубку по всему периметру не получается, то нужно изготовить из подручных материалов переносную, длиной от 2-х до 3-х метров, и действовать следующим образом. Собранная опалубка устанавливается над частью траншеи, и туда заливается бетон. После того, как он подсохнет, она переносится дальше по периметру, и таким образом заливается весь периметр участка. После того, как столбы забетонированы и готов фундамент, необходимо подождать два дня пока бетон примет твердость, и приступать к установке сетки — рабица.
- Установка рабицы будет идти следующим образом. Берется рулон, слегка разматывается, и его начало подводится к первому столбу. Это все фиксируется стальной проволокой, путем приматывания секций плетения к столбу. Зафиксировать необходимо вверху, внизу и в средней части. При этом, сетку, лучше всего немного намотать на первый столб, чтоб фиксация была жесткой. После этого рулон разматывается до следующего столба. Дойдя к другому столбу, делается натяжение, и в таком положении сетка снова фиксируется проволокой, и так до окончания рулона. После того, как берется следующий рулон, его начало фиксируется к столбу таким же образом, как было указано выше. Если все сделано правильно, то по всему периметру участка получится хорошее натяжение сетки, она не будет провисать.
Для придания рабице большей жесткости и устойчивости от различных механических воздействий, можно сделать такую хитрость. По ее верхней и нижней границе, там где начинается рисунок плетения, можно натянуть стальную проволоку, которую обматывать вокруг столбов. Таким образом, можно зафиксировать и центр.
Изготовление кованных заборов своими руками
Процесс изготовления и производства кованных заборов, которые требуют к себе особого подхода сложный, но если есть возможность во взятии в аренду специального оборудования и материала, то и такой забор можно изготовить и поставить самостоятельно. Следует отметить, что в некоторых случаях, владелец земельного участка, может заказать у профессионалов секции такой изгороди, а столбы и фундамент изготовить самостоятельно. Можно заказать и весь комплекс услуг по изготовлению и установки всего кованого забора, но некоторые могут рискнуть, и создать шедевр самостоятельно, но они должны запастись терпением. Условно, сам процесс самостоятельного изготовления и установки кованого металлического забора можно разделить на несколько этапов:
- выбор материалов для столбов, и сооружение фундамента, под такой забор;
- покупка металлической арматуры и прутов, из которых и будут изготовлены секции кованного забора;
- создание секций и элементов ковки, и соединение их в одно целое;
- непосредственная установка забора.
Конечно, каждый этап требует детального разъяснения.
Начинаем с самого первого этапа, это подготовка столбов и фундамента для такого забора. Необходимо понимать, что они должны быть прочными, так как вес секций внушительный, и делать это необходимо по всем правилам. Первое на что необходимо обратить внимание, это на выбор вида столбов, которые будут держать конструкцию. Их для кованых заборов бывает несколько:
- металлические;
- кирпичные;
- бетонные.
Каждый вид имеет свои плюсы и минусы.
Если выбор падает на металлические столбы, то технологический процесс выдвигает к ним следующие требования. Они должны быть круглого или прямоугольного сечения, минимальный диаметр или сечение должно быть не меньше 6 сантиметров. Выбор размера будет зависеть от высоты и секций и их веса. К плюсам таких столбов, можно отнести долговечность, стойкость к механическим воздействиям и вредным воздействиям атмосферных осадков. По цене они не дорогие, хорошо транспортируются, и не требуют предварительной подготовки. Единственно на что нужно обратить внимание, это на уход за ними. Периодически такие столбы необходимо покрывать антикороззийными жидкостями, лаками и красками. Это, наверное, и будет единственным минусом таких столбов.
Следующий вид, который идеально подходит к такому типу изгородей, это кирпичные столбы. Они прочны, долговечны, и имеют определенную эстетическую привлекательность. Единственным минусом является то, что при их изготовлении необходимо в точности соблюдать технологию строительства, которая состоит в следующем. Сначала по периметру столба выкладывается кирпичная кладка. Затем в центр помещается арматура, которая заливается бетоном. Для того, чтобы секции кованого забора легко крепились к этим столбам, с них также выводится арматура, к которой секции будут привариваться с помощью сварки.
Бетонные столбы, также отличаются долговечностью и прочностью, а при их строительстве используется бетонный раствор и арматура. Они стойки к различным механическим воздействиям, перепадам температур, но имеют один недостаток, который заключается в следующем. Такие опоры эффективно смогут удерживать секции высотой не более полутора метров. Все что свыше этого, будет оказывать большое воздействие на бетонные опоры и разрушать их. Поэтому использование таких столбов имеет свои конструктивные ограничения.
Итак, рассмотрев виды опор под кованные металлические заборы, можно приступить к детальному описанию всех этапов строительства и изготовления кованых заборов.
Как было указано выше, первый этап подготовительный, где необходимо определится с выбором столбов, а затем приступать к их сооружению и созданию фундамента. Этот этап необходимо разделить на такие действия.
- Самое первое с чего следует начать это разметка периметра участка, при которой отводится место под столбы. Делая это, следует понимать, что идеальным шагом (расстоянием) между столбами является расстояние в 1.5 — 2 метра, именно такой длины должны быть секции кованого забора. За основу нашей конструкции будут браться металлические столбы, так как процесс сооружения бетонных и кирпичных столбов сходен с процессом строительства фундамента и несложной строительной конструкции. Итак, разметка сделана, теперь нужно начать копать ямы под столбы и траншею под фундамент. Размеры их лучше делать следующими: диаметр ямы должен быть чуть большим самой опоры (металлического столба), а глубина не меньше 40 сантиметров. Чем больше вес конструкции, тем глубина больше. После выкапывания ям, можно приступать к рытью траншеи. Тут тоже есть свои особенности, которые состоят в следующем. Ширина и глубина траншеи на прямую зависит от климатических условий и качества грунта. Чем климат сложнее, а грунт хуже, тем она будет копаться глубже и шире. Минимальные размеры стандартной траншеи, под кованый забор, следующие: ширина 30 — 35 сантиметров, глубина 70 — 80 сантиметров. После того, как все выкопано, можно начинать следующие работы.
- После того, как все выкопано, необходимо провести утрамбовку дна всех ям под столбы, а также самой траншеи, и засыпать все это слоем песка, который полить водой, чтобы он хорошо утрамбовался и лег. Ямы, которые выкопаны под столбы, лучше всего засыпать слоем щебня, толщиной в 10-15 сантиметров и хорошо притрамбовывать с помощью деревянной колоды. Толщина слоя песка не должна превышать 10 сантиметров. После этого можно приступить к армированию.
- Процесс армирования происходит следующим образом. Берется металлическая арматура, и разлаживается по дну траншеи. Сначала кладутся длинные арматурины, а поверх их ложатся короткие (поперечные). Вся эта конструкция связывается между собой металлической проволокой, либо приваривается. После того как нижняя армировка готова, необходимо сделать по такому же принципу армировку по центру траншеи и по верху. При этом, перед началом армировки, столбы уже вкопаны в землю, поэтому арматура должна быть зафиксирована и к ним. Это можно сделать при помощи сварки, или привязки проволокой. Специалисты рекомендуют использовать именно проволоку, поскольку после залития всего этого бетоном, между столбами ставятся распорки, и они, таким образом, выравниваются с помощью строительного уровня. Сварка не позволит этого сделать. Все готово, и можно приступать к следующим действиям.
- Следующим шагом будет изготовление опалубки. В принципе о том, как делается опалубка, знают многие, поэтому вникать в детальный процесс ее изготовления не нужно. Хочется лишь дать один полезный совет. Для того, чтобы фундамент получился ровным, и не требовал дополнительной обработки, в качестве щитов опалубки, лучше всего использовать плиты МДФ. Их поверхность гладкая, и без каких либо неровностей. При этом они стойки к воздействию воды, и не будут набухать. После того, как опалубка готова, можно приступать к залитию бетоном.
- Траншея и ямы заливаются бетонным раствором. О процессе его изготовления и составных частях, было указано выше, при описании установки металлического забора из сетки — рабица. После того как раствор приготовлен, опалубка установлена, он равномерно заливается и оставляется на несколько дней. Хочется сказать, что под кованный забор, фундамент должен быть крепким, поэтому работы по установке тяжелых металлических секций лучше всего начинать через две, а то и три недели, после заливки бетона. Конечно, за это время можно подготовить секции кованого забора.
После того, как фундамент и столбы залиты, можно начинать заниматься следующим этапом, куда входит приобретение материалов и оборудования. Начнем с материалов. С учетом того, что человек решивший создать кованый забор своими руками, не будет заниматься горячей ковкой, то из материала необходимо будет приобрести металлические (стальные) прутья диаметром в 12 или 14 миллиметров, и листы стали, которые должны иметь толщину не более 2 миллиметров. Сразу необходимо оговориться, что листовая сталь понадобится только в тех случаях, если будут изготавливаться пики, или другие элементы, требующие наличия плоского металла. Если это не планируется, остаются только прутья. Ну и конечно не нужно забывать про соединительные элементы, куда подойдут металлические перекладины с прямоугольным сечением. Добавить к этому электроды, и все готово.
Теперь можно перейти к перечню оборудования, которое понадобится:
- сварочный аппарат, которым будут привариваться некоторые элементы между собой;
- болгарка в комплекте со шлифовальным и режущим диском по металлу;
- специальное оборудование для холодной ковки, с помощью которого будут изготавливаться необходимые декоративные элементы;
- хорошие тиски, которые смогут выдерживать значительные нагрузки, из этого следует, что они должны быть массивными и тяжелыми, поскольку другие просто выйдут из строя;
- лекальные тисы, которые понадобятся для того, чтобы материал можно было скручивать, и таким образом придавать ему вид спирали;
- домашние плоскогубцы;
- монтажная или строительная рулетка, можно лазерную;
- молоток или небольшая кувалда;
- строительный уровень;
- металлический уголок;
- оборудование для нанесения лакокрасочных покрытий, это может быть пульверизатор, либо несколько малярных кистей, различных размеров.
Ну вот и все, некоторые для удобства могут использовать и другое оборудование, но тут дан необходимый перечень. Теперь нужно сказать о специальном оборудовании, которое будет использоваться для изготовления кованных декоративных элементов. На практике его много, но новичку можно посоветовать следующее оборудование, которое некоторые называют гибочное:
- «гнутик», то есть при помощи него происходит сгибание металлических прутов под требуемым радиусом и углами;
- станки под названием «улитка», которые служат для того, чтобы придавать стальным прутьям спиралевидную форму;
- шаблонные станки, которые сгибают металлические пруты в окружности, а также могут менять радиусы таких окружностей;
- «твистер», такое оборудование также предназначено для скручивания прутьев в спираль.
Как видно из описания оборудования, «твистер» можно заменить на тиски, и тисы, так как при помощи последних стальным прутьям также можно придавать спиралевидную форму. Также можно дать ценный совет, что можно не тратить много денег на покупку или аренду вышеперечисленного оборудования, а можно купить пару станков и на основании их технических возможностей, создавать весь забор. После того, как появилось оборудование и материал, можно приступать к следующему этапу.
Он состоит из нескольких составных частей. Это разработка дизайна забора, и непосредственная реализация проекта. Чтобы разработать дизайн секций не обязательно привлекать дизайнера, можно просто включить фантазию и начать придумывать свой кованый забор. Лучше всего использовать поверхность равную секции кованого забора. Тут можно отталкиваться от той поверхности что есть, большой стол или другое приспособление, либо сделать все это на асфальте. Нужно напомнить, что шаг между столбами составляет 1.5 — 2 метра, поэтому секции должны быть не больше, а меньше на несколько сантиметров, для хорошего крепления их к столбам. Берется мел, которым делается чертеж секции, с выделением всех декоративных элементов, после чего можно приступать к их изготовлению. Правила пользования станками для холодной ковки можно найти в прилагаемой инструкции, интернете, и других информационных средствах. Главное соблюдать технику безопасности, дабы не причинить вред себе и окружающим.
Теперь можно переходить к пошаговому изготовлению кованого забора. Первый шаг состоит в том, что элементы декора кованого забора должны изготавливаться в соответствии с параметрами, которые расчерчены на рисунке. С помощью гибочного станка и других приспособлений необходимо изготовить необходимое количество элементов декора, при этом необходимо четко контролировать, чтобы все совпадало с рисунком.
Следующий шаг состоит в том, что на основании созданного рисунка, все изготовленные элементы кованого забора должны быть схвачены между собой с помощью точечной сварки. После этого, происходит сверка точности всех элементов, и соединений, проверяется ровность, и только после этого происходит их фиксация финишной сваркой.
Следующий шаг состоит в том, что с помощью шлифовочного круга происходит удаление всех наслоений сварки, заусениц, следов коррозии и других элементов, то есть фактически металл готовиться к антикороззийной обработке и последующей покраске.
Следующим действием является то, что с помощью специальных антикорозийных средств, происходит обработка всех деталей и элементов забора, и их последующая покраска лакокрасочным покрытием. Таким образом, забор приобретает свой внешний вид. И последнее, что необходимо сделать прикрепить элементы ковки к опорным конструкциям самой секции. Сами опорные конструкции создаются с помощью специальных планок или прямоугольных металлических столбиков. Тут можно идти двумя способами. Либо закрепить с помощью сварки, либо с помощью изготовленных заранее специальных хомутов. Теперь остается самое главное, прикрепить секции к столбам и забор готов.
Крепление секций к столбам происходит опять-таки при помощи сварки. Если столбы металлические, то к ним заранее привариваются штыри, которые и будут выступать элементами крепления между собой стоек и секций.
Хочется заметить одну важную деталь, которая состоит в следующем. Любая секция металлического забора, должна иметь ребра жесткости. Тут необходимо сказать, что в случае кованого металлического забора, эту функцию будут выполнять декоративные элементы, приваренные к основанию секции, то есть столбикам или опорным планкам. Вот в принципе и все тонкости изготовления и установки кованого забора.
Установка и изготовление сварного металлического забора
Теперь можно перейти к изготовлению и установке сварного забора. По своей конструкции, он практически ничем не отличается от кованого, за исключением того, что в нем будут отсутствовать некоторые декоративные элементы, которые присущи кованому забору, а так технология по изготовлению секций, столбов и фундамента ничем не отличается от кованого ограждения. Поэтому говоря о процессе установки столбиков, их выбора, и заливки фундамента, их можно делать и устанавливать также как и для кованого забора.
Перечень материалов, для изготовления сварного забора, практически не отличается от кованого, но в качестве столбиков может пойти и швеллер, если выбор падает на металл. Понадобятся также металлические прутья, уголки для создания секций, и все. Из оборудования, понадобится сварочный аппарат, измерительные приборы (рулетка, строительный уровень), электроды для сварки, и защитные приспособления. Процесс изготовления и установки сварного забора следующий.
После того, как установлены столбики, а фундамент начинает затвердевать, необходимо приступить к созданию секций. Лучше всего, как и в случае с кованым ограждением, нарисовать проект секции на ровной поверхности, после чего приступить к подготовке и сварке элементов. Металлические прутья бывают разной длины, поэтому их придется резать болгаркой. Но перед тем, как это делать, лучше всего сварить каркас секции. Тут можно использовать уголки, к которым легко приваривать прутья, прямоугольные металлические трубы, или металлические планки, толщиной не менее 2-3 миллиметров. Они будут создавать жесткость. Прутья с помощью сварочного аппарата и электродов привариваются, после чего происходит зачистка всех элементов болгаркой, грунтовка и покраска, и так с каждой секцией. Затем секции крепятся к столбам, при помощи той же сварки и забор готов. Более детальную и пошаговую инструкцию можно прочитать выше, где описано про изготовление и установку кованого забора. Нужно отметить, что наличие рамки, для секций сварных заборов не обязательно, все зависит от проекта.
Изготовление забора из профилированных металлических листов
Следующий вид заборов, это выполненные из металлических листов. Тут сразу необходимо отметить, что такой тип заборов отличается по изготовлению и установке от перечисленных выше. Прежде всего, необходимо рассказать о материале который пойдет на его изготовление. Это стандартные металлические листы, которые могут быть профилированными, либо нет, и выпускаются промышленным способом. Сразу оговоримся, что за основу лучше взять профилированный лист, который обладает рядом важных преимуществ, то есть легкий, его поверхность обработана специальным антикоррозийным покрытием, а производители предлагают широкую гамму цветов.
Процесс создания и установки таких заборов можно разделить на несколько этапов:
- подготовка столбов, и фундамента;
- создание рамной конструкции;
- непосредственное крепление профилированных листов.
Давайте рассмотрим каждый этап подробнее.
Под столбы подойдут любые круглые и прямоугольные трубы, швеллера. Их диаметр или сечение могут быть не очень большими, поскольку вся масса забора не будет иметь большого веса. Для того чтобы создать эффективный фундамент, достаточно вырыть траншею глубиной 10-20 сантиметров, и поднять сам фундамент на такую же высоту. Ширина его не должна превышать 30-40 сантиметров. Главное чтобы расстояние между столбами (шаг) не превышал стандартного размера профилированного листа, поэтому лучше перед установкой точно замерять ширину листов. После того, как столбы вбиты в землю, засыпаны щебнем, который утрамбован, на дно траншеи также засыпается песок (толщина 5-10 сантиметров), который заливается водой для выравнивания. Готовится опалубка, и устанавливается над траншеей. Подготовительные работы сделаны, после чего готовится бетон, по пропорциям, указанным выше и заливается в траншею. Одну неделю придется подождать, чтобы бетон затвердел до такого предела, который позволит создавать рамную конструкцию, и на нее крепить профилированные листы.
Второй этап создания и установки забора из профилированного листа состоит в создании рамной конструкции. Тут понадобятся металлические уголки, или швеллера, сварочный аппарат, электроды, защитные приспособления для сварки. Чтобы создать правильную рамную конструкцию под забор из профлиста, необходимо пользоваться такими расчетами. Шаг между приваренными поперечными уголками должен быть 30-40 сантиметров. Это нужно для того, чтобы листы крепко крепились, при этом создавали хорошую жесткость к различным механическим воздействиям, и не гнулись. Исходя из таких расчетов, и начинает создаваться рамная конструкция. Купленные уголки размечаются по длине, и режутся на равные отрезки, длина которых составляет расстоянию между столбами. После этого, они привариваются к столбам. Все рамная конструкция готова, теперь можно приступать к установке профилированного листа.
Самый последний этап это крепление профилированных листов к раме. Тут понадобятся электроинструмент, саморезы по металлу, резиновые шайбы, сверла. Из электроинструмента, лучше взять качественную дрель и шуруповерт. Процесс установки профилированного листа будет происходить следующим образом. На металлических уголках размечаются места, где будут вкручены шурупы, крепящие лист к раме, а затем в этих местах, при помощи сверла делаются отверстия под шурупы. После этого, приставляется профилированный лист, на котором также любым способом помечаются места, где будут вкручиваться шурупы, которые должны соответствовать просверленным отверстиям. После чего при помощи шуруповерта, профилированный лист закрепляется к раме конструкции. Все достаточно просто. И так делается, пока не будут установлены все листы.
Важные советы в данном случае будут следующие. Под каждый шуруп, то есть между его шляпкой и листом метала, необходимо помещать резиновую прокладку, которая будет выполнять роль амортизатора, а также делать лист устойчивым к ветру. Места, где вкручиваются шурупы, а точнее оголившийся металл, лучше всего обрабатывать антикороззийным покрытием, дабы исключить его гниение. Если решено ставить забор из профилированного листа, то придется забыть о кирпичных или бетонных столбах, поскольку технология такого забора предусматривает полное закрытие столбов, то есть они прячутся за плотно стоящими друг к другу профилированными листами. Также можно дать совет, который связан со стыкованием листов между собой. Их можно плотно подгонять друг к другу на столбе, либо делать внахлест. В этом случае необходимо учесть, что при этом, лучше всего наложить листы друг на друга не в месте профиля. Ну, в принципе и все.
Изготовление металлических заборов из сварных секций (щитов)
Металлические заборы, изготовленные из сварных секций, а некоторые еще называют их щитовыми, они выполняют роль, связанную с защитой участка от посторонних глаз, и проникновения на него чужих людей, поэтому их конструкция, немного специфическая. Решив изготовить и поставить такой забор, собственник земельного участка должен понимать, что ни о какой эстетической красоте речи быть не может, а безопасность двора, и сооружений располагающихся на земельном участке может быть обеспечена на высоком уровне. В связи с тем, что такие заборы массивные и тяжелые, нужно хорошо позаботиться о столбах, которые будут их удерживать, а также о фундаменте, на который будет возложена обязанность по удержанию всей конструкции. Строительство таких заборов можно также разделить на несколько этапов. Первый состоит в оборудовании периметра ямами под столбы, а также подготовка траншеи под фундамент. Второй, это непосредственно выбор материала, и подбор необходимого оборудования, а третий состоит в изготовлении щитовых секций, и установка их по периметру участка. Давайте рассмотрим каждый подробно.
Перед тем как приступить к строительству фундамента и опорных столбов, как было указано выше, нужно понимать о том, что сам забор будет весить много, и под него необходима добротная конструкция. Выше по тексту было указано, какие столбы распространены для металлических заборов (металлические, кирпичные и бетонные) и их конструктивные особенности. В нашем случае, выбор падает на металлические, или на кирпичные основания. Бетонные не подходят, поскольку не обладают достаточной конструктивной прочностью, и не могут держать слишком тяжелые металлические заборы. Если выбор падает на металлические опоры, то лучше выбирать трубы диаметром от 6 сантиметров, и таким же сечением, в случае приобретения металлических столбов. Если наоборот владелец решает установить кирпичные столбы, тогда понадобится кирпич, арматура и бетон. Процесс установки железных столбов прост, и состоит из следующих этапов:
- сначала производится замер всего периметра территории, которая будет ограждена, а потом, ставятся пометки там, где будут закапываться столбы. Шаг между ними не должен превышать 2-х метров;
- после этого роются ямы под столбы и траншея, при этом следует обратить внимание на их параметры, они такие же как и для кованного забора;
- после того, как земляные работы окончены, в ямы вставляются столбы, которые слегка вбиваются в землю кувалдой, а пространство вокруг них засыпается 10-ти сантиметровым слоем щебня;
- после того, как это сделано речным песком засыпается 10-ти сантиметровый слой траншеи, и заливается это все водой, чтобы песок улежался и спрессовался;
- делается трехслойное армирование траншеи, то есть арматура кладется вдоль и поперек траншеи, и сваривается, либо связывается между собой проволокой, а слои располагаются внизу, посредине, и вверху;
- обязательно проволокой необходимо зафиксировать армировку к металлическим столбам, но не приваривать ее;
- делается опалубка, а получившееся пространство заливается бетоном, при этом между выровненными под строительный уровень металлическими столбами ставятся распорки.
На качественное застывание бетона понадобится от двух до трех недель, поэтому за это время можно приступать к изготовлению секций забора.
Сначала лучше всего выбрать материал. Для изготовления щитовых заборов, лучше всего подойдут уголки, и стальные листы толщиной от 2 миллиметров. Если выбор падет на листы, которые толще 2 миллиметров, то лучше использовать швеллера. Листы могут быть стальными, либо оцинкованными (если щитовая конструкция будет огораживать двор жилого дома, или дачного участка, поскольку оцинкованные листы обладают защитой от коррозии). После выбора материала, и его закупки можно приступать к изготовлению секций. Тут понадобится сварочный аппарат, хорошие электроды и болгарка с шлифовочным и режущим диском. Сначала изготавливается рамка конструкции. Берутся уголки или швеллера, на них делается разметка, и вырезаются отрезки. Должна получиться прямоугольная конструкция. Сначала, с помощью точечной сварки, элементы скрепляются между собой, после чего проверяется все на ровность углов, если все хорошо, можно приступать к финишной сварке. Проваривать нужно хорошо, так как рамка должна обладать хорошей жесткостью.
После того как рамка готова, можно приступать к замерам и вырезанию листов необходимой длины и ширины. Тут понадобится рулетка и болгарка с диском по металлу. Все тщательно измеряется, затем лист вырезается в точности с расчерченными параметрами. Вырезанные листы должны накладываться на сторону уголков, чтобы их можно было приварить. После того, как все готово, секция зачищается, проходит антикороззийную обработку, покраску и устанавливается. Важно не забыть, что крепится она будет к столбам путем сварки. Для этого к каждому столбу приваривают арматурные пруты, к которым впоследствии приваривается секция. На одну сторону должно быть приварено по три прута, вверху, внизу и в центре. Если все сделать правильно, то получатся массивные секции с хорошей жесткостью, и устойчивостью к механическим воздействиям.
Хочется заметить, что некоторые умельцы, делают такие секции с помощью болтов. То есть вырезанные листы прикручиваются к рамке с помощью болтов. Этого нельзя делать, поскольку конструкция будет не такой жесткой, при этом болты начинают ржаветь, так как их трудно обработать антикороззийными материалами и покрасить.
Изготовление и установка декоративных металлических заборов
Последний вид металлических заборов, это декоративные. Как было указано выше, этот вид металлических заборов заключает в себя несколько видов ограждений, выполненных из разных материалов. Лучше всего будет гармонировать камень и кованный или сварной металл. Перед тем как решится на изготовление и установку такого забора самостоятельно, необходимо разработать его дизайнерский проект, а затем приступить к его реализации. Процесс его изготовления также состоит из создания добротного фундамента, который будет уже облицован камнем. Столбы самого забора лучше делать кирпичные или бетонные, и тоже облицовывать камнем. Металлические элементы подойдут кованные или сварные, все зависит от желания или наличия оборудования. При изготовлении фундамента необходимо придерживаться правил, которые указаны в разделе про кованные заборы, как сделать кованую или сварную конструкцию секций и отдельных декоративных элементов, также было рассказано выше.
Проекты заборов
Перед тем как начать изготавливать и устанавливать металлический забор, необходимо четко представлять какой он будет. Профессионалы рекомендуют сначала сделать дизайнерский проект, а затем приступать к работам. Если металлические заборы из сетки не требуют разработки проектов, так как являются временными ограждениями, или используются в качестве изгородей между соседними земельными участками, то остальные виды металлических изгородей требуют особого подхода и дизайнерской мысли, особо это относится к кованным, сварным и декоративным металлическим заборам. Можно обратиться за помощью к хорошему дизайнеру, но за это придется платить, а можно и самому разработать проект, сделать эскиз, или чертеж и приступать к работам. Для того, чтобы не тратить много времени на придумывание дизайн проекта, можно пойти двумя путями.
Первый состоит в том, что огромное количество таких проектов можно найти в сети интернет. На специальных сайтах есть чертежи и макеты всех видов металлических заборов, поэтому остается только выбрать подходящий. Можно также обратиться за помощью к сайтам компаний, которые занимаются профессиональным изготовлением металлических заборов, на них тоже можно найти много интересного. Второй путь состоит в поиске различной литературы и имеющихся чертежей в ней, которая написана профессиональными кузнецами и другими специалистами в области строительства металлических заборов.
Следующий вопрос, который волнует многих, а зачем делать чертежи и проекты, если есть идея, и человек знает, чего хочет. Чтобы ответить на этот вопрос, нужно понимать, для чего собственно придуман чертеж. Прежде всего, это расчет количества необходимого материала, и проработка всех тонкостей. Без проекта, с теми, кто делает металлический забор, могут произойти казусные ситуации, при которых материала для его изготовления будет мало, либо слишком много, а это дополнительные траты денег и времени. При создании проекта металлического забора, необходимо учитывать следующие факторы:
- прежде всего, необходимо составить чертеж всего металлического забора, с указанием количества столбов, размеров фундамента, местом, где будут располагаться ворота, входные двери, где указать четкие параметры и размеры всех основных элементов;
- составляется отдельный чертеж одной секции металлического забора, где четко указываются ее общие параметры (высота, длина, ширина), размеры и количество составных элементов секции, а также декоративных вставок (если таковые есть);
- делается отдельный чертеж на входную дверь и ворота с указанием их размеров, а также рисуются ручки и другие декоративные элементы.
К этому всему можно добавить и тот момент, что если принято решение сделать бетонные или кирпичные столбы, для них также понадобится чертеж, с указанием всех элементов и параметров.
После того, как все чертежи будут готовы, можно приступать к закупке материала и изготовлению металлического забора. Сам проект поможет правильно подойти к выполнению работы, и не переживать о нехватке материала. Именно для того, чтобы все получилось качественно и красиво делается дизайнерский проект и чертеж металлического забора.
Цены на металлические заборы
О ценах на различные металлические заборы необходимо остановится подробнее. Прежде всего, стоит разделить готовые изделия и материал, из которого будет делаться металлический забор. Цена на готовые металлические заборы, которые предлагают производители, формируются по стоимости одной секции или погонному метру. Сюда будут входить используемые материалы, сложность работы, и наличие декоративных элементов. Если взять кованые заборы, то в стоимость будет включаться материал и работа. Цена на заборы из листовой профилированной стали будет зависеть от стоимости одного листа, работы по его установке, материалов которые пойдут на раму. Цена на щитовые металлические заборы формируется только из стоимости материалов (листов стали, уголков и швеллеров), которые пойдут на изготовление всего забора. Если брать забор из сетки — рабица, тот тут стоимость будет формировать цена на нее за один погонный метр, и количество столбиков. Средняя цена на виды металлических заборов такова:
- Сварной забор стартует от 1500 рублей за один погонный метр, либо от 2000 рублей за одну секцию. В эту цену будет входить материал, работа сварщика и резчика по металлу, расходные материалы (электроды, режущие круги по металлу для болгарки). Также это обработка металла специальным антикороззийным покрытием, и покраска. Соответственно цена идет без установки. За установку придется доплачивать отдельно, либо делать ее самостоятельно.
- Кованный металлический забор начинает стоить от 9000 рублей за одну секцию. Тут не используется понятие погонного метра, поскольку все затраты идут на одну секцию. В цену входит стоимость материала, обработка поверхностей металла специальным покрытием против ржавчины, покраска. Установка это дополнительная цена, отдельная от секции. Также нужно учитывать такие факторы. Ковка бывает разной, холодной или горячей. При холодной ковке, изготовление различных декоративных элементов происходит с помощью специальных станков, и при горячей фактически вручную, так как металл нужно нагревать. Соответственно цена за последний вид ковки значительно выше.
- Стоимость металлических заборов из профилированного листа начинается от 3000 рублей за один погонный метр. Сюда будет входить цена одного стандартного профилированного листа, расходные материалы на изготовление специальной рамы, саморезы, резиновые шайбы. Некоторые изготовители включают в стоимость и цену за работу связанную с установкой. Поэтому узнав цену лучше уточнить, что туда входит.
- Стоимость заборов из сетки — рабица зависит от цены за один погонный метр или килограмм, и начинается от 50-60 рублей за килограмм или погонный метр. К этому всему можно добавить то, что некоторые строительные компании занимаются установкой металлических столбов под различные заборы, и берут за свою работу от 150 рублей за один погонный метр столба. Если это все суммировать, то получится установка одного погонного метра забора из сетки — рабица обойдется в стоимость от 200 рублей. В данном случае придется потратиться только на рытье траншеи и заливки ее, чтоб получился фундамент.
- Стоимость заборов металлических, изготовленных из сварных секций, варьируется от 2500 рублей за одну секцию, поскольку для ее изготовления идет толстые листы металла, уголки или швеллера. На рынке не много компаний, которые делают такие конструкции, так как это не популярный вид металлических заборов. Поэтому в некоторых случаях приходится обращаться к простым сварщикам.
- Стоимость декоративных металлических заборов, трудно определить по причине их особенности. Как писалось ранее, стандартный декоративный металлический забор, представляет из себя комбинацию многих материалов, это и ковка, и сварка и натуральные материалы, которые используются при производстве и строительстве заборов из других материалов. Особенностью таких заборов является то, что изделия из металла, в таком заборе применяются не повсеместно, а отдельными секциями, которые будут разбросаны по всему периметру. Поэтому в стоимость таких заборов будут входить металлические секции (не погонные метры), а также другие материалы, которые будут использоваться для его строительства. Средняя цена, если секции кованные стартует от 10 000 рублей.
Разобравшись в ценовой политике отечественных компаний на металлические заборы, нужно коснуться и стоимости самого фундамента. Ведь добротный металлический забор требует крепкого фундамента и хороших столбов. О стоимости установки металлических столбов было указано выше (150 рублей метр погонный). Стоимость фундамента, будет тоже зависеть от его ширины и глубины. То есть это работа по вырыванию траншеи, армирования, создания опалубки, и непосредственно заливки бетоном. В общей сложности цены начинаются от 2500 — 3000 рублей за метр.
Теперь необходимо разобраться в стоимости материалов, которые пойдут на изготовление металлических заборов. Самыми распространенными являются металлические прутья, сетка — рабица, арматура, металлические трубы и столбы, листы стали толщиной от 2 миллиметров. Теперь необходимо рассмотреть цены на эти материалы:
- стоимость металлических прутьев стартует от 500 рублей за один килограмм;
- стоимость металлических листов начинается от 1300 рублей за один, и зависит от общего веса, короззийной стойкости и толщины металла;
- стоимость круглых труб для забора начинается от 3000 рублей за одну единицу, и зависит от способа производства, диаметра и других технических данных;
- стоимость прямоугольных труб начинается от 2500 рублей за одну штуку.
В принципе ориентируясь на такие цены, можно прикинуть стоимость всего забора. Но важно знать, что указанные цены со временем могут измениться в сторону убывания, либо — же повышения.
Особенности металлических заборов
Об особенностях всех видов металлических заборов было рассказано выше, когда описывался каждый вид. Но хочется выделить общие особенности таких ограждений, которые выгодно отличают их от других видов заборов:
- долговечность, ведь хорошо обработанный металл будет служить долгое время, и практически не покрываться ржавчиной;
- красивый эстетический вид, особенно это относится к кованным, декоративным и сварным заборам, так как особенности их конструкции и производства позволяют создавать множество декоративных элементов, и экспериментировать с самыми сложными проектами;
- хорошая защита домовладений и других территорий от проникновения посторонних лиц;
- некоторые металлические заборы (сварные, кованные и декоративные) служат также для того, чтобы на территорию попадало больше света.
Несмотря на свою стоимость, металлические заборы остаются популярными среди наших людей, поскольку подчеркивают не только статус владельца, но и внушают некую защищенность территории и находящихся на ней сооружений. Благодаря развитию современных технологий, существует большое разнообразие металлических заборов на любой вкус и кошелек.
Важно лишь понимать, что если владелец участка решит своими руками изготовить шедевр, то ему придется придерживаться определенной технологии производства и установки забора, а также современных технических требований ко всем видам металлических ограждений. Только после соблюдения всех требований можно рассчитывать на качественное ограждение, которое прослужит долго, при этом будет иметь красивый эстетический вид и радовать своего владельца.
Металлические заборы и ограждения из прутка 6 мм фото и цены, из профнастила для дачи и дома
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Faytech North America is a touch screen Manufacturer of both monitors and pcs. They specialize in the design, development, manufacturing and marketing of Capacitive touch screen, Resistive touch screen, Industrial touch screen, IP65 touch screen, touchscreen monitors and integrated touchscreen PCs. Contact them at http://www.faytech.us, 121 Varick Street,3rd Floor,New York, NY 10013,+1 646 205 3214
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